Final Evaluation

Self Directed Project Evaluation

When i first decided to make a suit for SDP it was because i really wanted to specialise in tailoring in my 3^rd year, and learn more about specialist tailoring techniques, having finished this project i am even more definite that tailoring is the route for me. I also know that i have a lot more learning in this specialist area before i become even slightly competent. Having said that i am dedicated to perfecting my skills, and will do everything i possibly can to ensure i do not let my skills slip in any area. Not only do i thoroughly enjoy tailoring but i can see a future in it for me, as outlined in professional environment my long term goal is to end up working successfully as a tailor on Savile Row. I expect a lot of hard work and commitment before i reach my goal, and that hard work begins right now.

When i began this project i was worried about my time management, because in past projects i have been known to leave things to the last minute, and as this was self directed i knew i had to strictly timetable my time, something i am constantly working to get better at. So i wrote my timetable at the beginning of the project, because we had to hand one in with our learning agreement, but i hardly ever looked at it, the majority of the time i had a mental note of what i wanted to get done each day and what needed to be done the next day. This i realise is not the best way to plan time, but most of the time did more work than i had set myself. Which kept me confident throughout the project, and to my own surprise i remained on top of my work load constantly throughout. The only explanation i have for this is that i enjoyed myself so much i just carried on working, i didn’t get bored or stressed or angry with the costume. Which is a nice surprise to me, and this is something i have only noticed having looked back on the project.

I had a 3 week work placement straight after the Easter holiday, which ate away at my self directed project time, but this didn’t seem to hinder my costume construction in any way. I made sure i had made my toile and had my fitting and made the changes to the pattern pieces before Easter, knowing that as soon as i was back from my placement i could go straight into making the costume in top fabric. I then had 2 weeks to construct and finish my costume, i made the skirt first and got that out of the way, this took me 2 days, which left the rest of my time to focus on the jacket, which in my eyes was the challenge in the project. I managed to construct the skirt in 2 days because i was taught on my work placement how to make a pencil skirt almost identical to the skirt i was making for this project, and as the knowledge was fresh in my head i just got on with it and felt very confident about it. I am very pleased with the outcome of the skirt i have made, and it fits Kelly perfectly, and looks stunning.

There are various new things i have learnt throughout this project, and i feel like i am still learning all the time. I now know how to put a pocket flap into a jetted pocket, and how to make a kick pleat in a skirt, i found these both challenging at times but have overcome the challenges i have given myself, and feel very happy with my progress.

There are undoubtedly things i am not happy with, with the costume, i know its not perfect and could most defiantly have been made better, but for the level i am at i think its a good quality to be producing.

I appreciate this project was hard for me to get my head around, i didn’t know who was able to assist me and guide me. I was soon made aware of who i could and could not ask for help from. The help i did receive was greatly appreciated, and once i understood the way the project was working, i had no problems identifying and asking my tutor for help. The help i also received from deter was invaluable to me, i am so glad i acknowledged this area of weakness before my 3^rd year. I feel well prepared to entre my last year of my degree, and expect a lot of hard work and pressure. I will constantly strive to continue perfecting my skills and abilities, and plan to still focus on tailoring as a specialism.

I have really enjoyed this project, and appreciated being left to direct myself. For me this project was a success.

looking back

Looking back at my costume, there is one thing i am not very happy with, something i wish i had done differently.
I used light blue chalk to mark the cloth pattern pieces, i didnt realise it would be as noticable as it is. I did choose the lightest coloured chalk, thinking i did acctually need to see my markings, but the blue has turned out as a bad decision.
Overall you can not see the markings on the costume except the centre front markings, which i am really not happy with, this is something i would deffinatly have done differantly, and would certanly not do again in the future, such a shame because otherwise im very happy with the outcome.
This is something i will learn from. Thats all i can say.

Finishing the jacket

Today i put the finishing touches to my jacket, i stitched the buttons on, and gave the jacket a light press, to get rid of any wrinkles. When i put the jacket on the stand and stepped away to have a look at the way it was hanging, i noticed that a small section at the back of the jacket on the hem wasn't sitting right, Graham also pointed it out to me and suggested i unpick that section of the jacket hem to release the lining which seems to be pulling the top fabric.
The only problem i have is that to put the black trim on the jacket i had to trim away the cloth and lining seam allowance, so i dont have much lining to release. My plan is to sew on the chain weight, and see if it does it job, to help the fabric hang.
If i had more time i would certainly unpick the back of the jacket hem and try and loosen the lining, so this will be something i will do after hand in before Kelly wears the suit.
I will not let Kelly wear the suit until it looks perfect.
This is my challenge!

2 Books thoughout this project were invaluable to me, Couture Sewing Techniques and Tailoring a step - by - step guide to creating beautiful customized garments.

In the Couture Sewing Tecniques book there was a section dedicated to what is called 'Chanelisms', a term given to Chanel tailoring by the editors at Vogue in the 1960's.
Chanelisms include details such as 'The quilted Lining', 'The Chain Weight' and 'Chanel Trims'.

The house of Chanel uses chain weights at the hem line on the inside of the jacketsto make them hang smootly and remain level with out 'catching' on the top of the skirt. On most jackets, the chain is sewn around the entire hem, starting and ending at the centre front or at the edge of the facing. On the occasional jacket with many heavy buttons, which provide enough weight for the front, the chain is only used on the back. When the jacket is linned to the edge, the chain is ussually located just above the hemline. The chain is removed for cleaning to prevent unsightly press marks.
This is a detail i would like to add to my suit.

finishing touches

Today i also did the finishing touches to the skirt, i hemmed the linning on the skirt and slip stitched the lining to the cloth on the kick pleat, i also put on a false button on the waist band, i thought the waist band was too thick to put in a real button and button hole, so decided that it would be a nice touch to have a button but have sewn in a hook and bar aswell, for actual use.

Button Holes

Today i made my button holes in the jacket.

I used a domestic machine for the button holes, and did 5 practice button holes untill i was happy.

It took me about 10mins to pluck up the courage to start sewing the button holes, i was genuinly terrified incase i ruined the jacket. But once i acctually started sewing them, i was on a role and they turned out really well i think, im pleased with them.

Tutorial Reflection

I have had 3 tutorials with Graham, and a fitting with Adele and Graham.