2 Books thoughout this project were invaluable to me, Couture Sewing Techniques and Tailoring a step - by - step guide to creating beautiful customized garments.

In the Couture Sewing Tecniques book there was a section dedicated to what is called 'Chanelisms', a term given to Chanel tailoring by the editors at Vogue in the 1960's.
Chanelisms include details such as 'The quilted Lining', 'The Chain Weight' and 'Chanel Trims'.

The house of Chanel uses chain weights at the hem line on the inside of the jacketsto make them hang smootly and remain level with out 'catching' on the top of the skirt. On most jackets, the chain is sewn around the entire hem, starting and ending at the centre front or at the edge of the facing. On the occasional jacket with many heavy buttons, which provide enough weight for the front, the chain is only used on the back. When the jacket is linned to the edge, the chain is ussually located just above the hemline. The chain is removed for cleaning to prevent unsightly press marks.
This is a detail i would like to add to my suit.