Final Evaluation

Self Directed Project Evaluation

When i first decided to make a suit for SDP it was because i really wanted to specialise in tailoring in my 3^rd year, and learn more about specialist tailoring techniques, having finished this project i am even more definite that tailoring is the route for me. I also know that i have a lot more learning in this specialist area before i become even slightly competent. Having said that i am dedicated to perfecting my skills, and will do everything i possibly can to ensure i do not let my skills slip in any area. Not only do i thoroughly enjoy tailoring but i can see a future in it for me, as outlined in professional environment my long term goal is to end up working successfully as a tailor on Savile Row. I expect a lot of hard work and commitment before i reach my goal, and that hard work begins right now.

When i began this project i was worried about my time management, because in past projects i have been known to leave things to the last minute, and as this was self directed i knew i had to strictly timetable my time, something i am constantly working to get better at. So i wrote my timetable at the beginning of the project, because we had to hand one in with our learning agreement, but i hardly ever looked at it, the majority of the time i had a mental note of what i wanted to get done each day and what needed to be done the next day. This i realise is not the best way to plan time, but most of the time did more work than i had set myself. Which kept me confident throughout the project, and to my own surprise i remained on top of my work load constantly throughout. The only explanation i have for this is that i enjoyed myself so much i just carried on working, i didn’t get bored or stressed or angry with the costume. Which is a nice surprise to me, and this is something i have only noticed having looked back on the project.

I had a 3 week work placement straight after the Easter holiday, which ate away at my self directed project time, but this didn’t seem to hinder my costume construction in any way. I made sure i had made my toile and had my fitting and made the changes to the pattern pieces before Easter, knowing that as soon as i was back from my placement i could go straight into making the costume in top fabric. I then had 2 weeks to construct and finish my costume, i made the skirt first and got that out of the way, this took me 2 days, which left the rest of my time to focus on the jacket, which in my eyes was the challenge in the project. I managed to construct the skirt in 2 days because i was taught on my work placement how to make a pencil skirt almost identical to the skirt i was making for this project, and as the knowledge was fresh in my head i just got on with it and felt very confident about it. I am very pleased with the outcome of the skirt i have made, and it fits Kelly perfectly, and looks stunning.

There are various new things i have learnt throughout this project, and i feel like i am still learning all the time. I now know how to put a pocket flap into a jetted pocket, and how to make a kick pleat in a skirt, i found these both challenging at times but have overcome the challenges i have given myself, and feel very happy with my progress.

There are undoubtedly things i am not happy with, with the costume, i know its not perfect and could most defiantly have been made better, but for the level i am at i think its a good quality to be producing.

I appreciate this project was hard for me to get my head around, i didn’t know who was able to assist me and guide me. I was soon made aware of who i could and could not ask for help from. The help i did receive was greatly appreciated, and once i understood the way the project was working, i had no problems identifying and asking my tutor for help. The help i also received from deter was invaluable to me, i am so glad i acknowledged this area of weakness before my 3^rd year. I feel well prepared to entre my last year of my degree, and expect a lot of hard work and pressure. I will constantly strive to continue perfecting my skills and abilities, and plan to still focus on tailoring as a specialism.

I have really enjoyed this project, and appreciated being left to direct myself. For me this project was a success.

looking back

Looking back at my costume, there is one thing i am not very happy with, something i wish i had done differently.
I used light blue chalk to mark the cloth pattern pieces, i didnt realise it would be as noticable as it is. I did choose the lightest coloured chalk, thinking i did acctually need to see my markings, but the blue has turned out as a bad decision.
Overall you can not see the markings on the costume except the centre front markings, which i am really not happy with, this is something i would deffinatly have done differantly, and would certanly not do again in the future, such a shame because otherwise im very happy with the outcome.
This is something i will learn from. Thats all i can say.

Finishing the jacket

Today i put the finishing touches to my jacket, i stitched the buttons on, and gave the jacket a light press, to get rid of any wrinkles. When i put the jacket on the stand and stepped away to have a look at the way it was hanging, i noticed that a small section at the back of the jacket on the hem wasn't sitting right, Graham also pointed it out to me and suggested i unpick that section of the jacket hem to release the lining which seems to be pulling the top fabric.
The only problem i have is that to put the black trim on the jacket i had to trim away the cloth and lining seam allowance, so i dont have much lining to release. My plan is to sew on the chain weight, and see if it does it job, to help the fabric hang.
If i had more time i would certainly unpick the back of the jacket hem and try and loosen the lining, so this will be something i will do after hand in before Kelly wears the suit.
I will not let Kelly wear the suit until it looks perfect.
This is my challenge!

2 Books thoughout this project were invaluable to me, Couture Sewing Techniques and Tailoring a step - by - step guide to creating beautiful customized garments.

In the Couture Sewing Tecniques book there was a section dedicated to what is called 'Chanelisms', a term given to Chanel tailoring by the editors at Vogue in the 1960's.
Chanelisms include details such as 'The quilted Lining', 'The Chain Weight' and 'Chanel Trims'.

The house of Chanel uses chain weights at the hem line on the inside of the jacketsto make them hang smootly and remain level with out 'catching' on the top of the skirt. On most jackets, the chain is sewn around the entire hem, starting and ending at the centre front or at the edge of the facing. On the occasional jacket with many heavy buttons, which provide enough weight for the front, the chain is only used on the back. When the jacket is linned to the edge, the chain is ussually located just above the hemline. The chain is removed for cleaning to prevent unsightly press marks.
This is a detail i would like to add to my suit.

finishing touches

Today i also did the finishing touches to the skirt, i hemmed the linning on the skirt and slip stitched the lining to the cloth on the kick pleat, i also put on a false button on the waist band, i thought the waist band was too thick to put in a real button and button hole, so decided that it would be a nice touch to have a button but have sewn in a hook and bar aswell, for actual use.

Button Holes

Today i made my button holes in the jacket.

I used a domestic machine for the button holes, and did 5 practice button holes untill i was happy.

It took me about 10mins to pluck up the courage to start sewing the button holes, i was genuinly terrified incase i ruined the jacket. But once i acctually started sewing them, i was on a role and they turned out really well i think, im pleased with them.

Tutorial Reflection

I have had 3 tutorials with Graham, and a fitting with Adele and Graham.

Last Thoughts

The costume finnished! (the costume doesnt fit well on the manequine)

Linning

I am really pleased with the progress i made today. I managed to put my linning in the jacket.

I first put the shoulder pads in and herringbone stitched these in, then i did 2 swing catches to hold the lining to the shoulder points.
Then i pushed the linning sleeves though the cloth sleeves and slip stiched the hem of the cuff to the cloth cuff.
Then i matched up the s/a lines of the cloth and lining around the raw edge, and machine stiched these together, trimmed off the excess and applied the black trim.

Today i managed to sew in the sleeves on the jacket cloth and the lining, sleeves i find generally hard anyway, never mind trying to keep the cloth as clean as possible, and being as gentle with it as i can. But the sleeves went in relativly easy for me, and now i can see it coming together, its really exciting.

Quick try on sesh with Kelly!

Looking good!

The stage my costume is at today!

Trimming

While on placement in london i bought all my fabric's and trimmings and buttons for this self directed project.
Suiting fabric came from Textile king on Berwick street, Lining and Buttons came from The Cloth House on Berwick Street, and trimming came from Kleins on Noel Street.
One thing that has come out of this experience of buying fabic in London is that, yes the variety may be greater, and everything is more exciting and new and intersting, but know exactly what quantity of everything you need.
For example i bought 2 metres of trimming frm Kleins, but when i got back to Bournemouth i realised that this was not enough for the entire costume i ideally needed atleast 4 metres, so after many a phone call and emails to and from Kleins to try and get more trim sent to me, this turned out to me more hassle than its worth. I ended up being tempted to go to london to get more trim because it was all a bit too much like hard work for Kleins. When Alison came to the rescue and told me there might be something simmilar in the haberdashery cuboard, low and behold there was waiting for me to find it a trim pretty much almost identical to what i needed.
So the moral of the story is get more than you need, or know exact measurements. I leason i have now learned.

Arts Ed costume - a 1950's suit

Fitting with actor.

Arts Ed Placement

I was given the opportunity to go for work placement at Arts Educational Schools London for 3 weeks recently.
The thought of moving to London for 3 weeks was daunting enought, never mind going to work in a professional costume workroom.
However i thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
It was a relativly small workroom, and the 3 ladies that worked there got on really well, they were really close which made for an enjoyable working environment. They were so friendly to me and so helpful.
I started the placement the week after the easter holidays had finished, so the costume workroom were just begining to work on a production of Arturo Ui, they had costume designs to work from and were digging out patterns. The production was to be set in the 1950's, and it was to be an all female cast.
The head of the wardrobe department Orsa, baisically said choose one of the designs or a particular pattern that took my fancy and i could make it. So i chose a grey 1950's suit, which Orsa decided a week later would be perfect for the principle character of Arturo.
I used the tailoring skills graham had taught us, mixed with Orsa's way of simplifying things. I was genuinly terrified when i realised the amount of work i had just given myself, and slightly overwhelmed, but like always Orsa's layed back approach to everything calmed me instantly.
If ever i was stuck there was someone to help me, someone to explain, always a way to simlplify a problem. I discovered that this was a reacurring theme in the Arts Ed workroom, but for one reason only, they needed to make costumes and fast, and in big quantity.
Something Orsa always said that will never leave me.... 'oh its fine darling'.
I was also given the opportunity to fit the costume i was making, so it was arranged for the actor to come in and have a fitting, this was not a new experience for me as we do fittings often at uni, but this was not a normal fitting, it was fast and relaxed, and nothing was ever a big deal or a problem, hense 'oh its fine darling'.
I didnt manage to finish the costume, as i had a car crash while in london, i went home for 3 days to recover from shock. This also managed to put a dampner on my London experience.
However while i was in London i was given a tour of all the fabric shops in Shepards bush, Oxford circus and soho. Berwick Street is my new favourite fabric road.
I enjoyed this work experience, it was challenging at times but really enjoyable and that was entirely down to the people i was working with.

Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) was a pioneering French fashion designer whose modernist philosophy, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her an important figure in 20th-century fashion. She was the founder of the famous fashion brand Chanel. Her extraordinary influence on fashion was such that she was the only person in the field to be named on Time 100: The Most Important People of the Century.

The Lady herself

Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel, 1920
Born	Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel 19 August 1883(1883-08-19) Saumur, France
Died	10 January 1971 (aged 87) Paris, France
Nationality	French
Education	Catholic Monastery in Aubazine
Labels	Chanel
Awards	Neiman Marcus Fashion Award, 1957

book list

Chanel: Collections and Creations

by Daniele Bott

The World of Coco Chanel: Friends, Fashion, Fame

by Edmonde Charles-Roux

Coco Chanel: A Biography

by Axel Madsen

Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life

by Justine Picardie

The Allure of Chanel

by Paul Morand, Euan Cameron

Chanel: Her Life, Her World, and the Woman Behind the Legend She Herself Created

by Nancy Amphoux, Edmonde Charles-Roux

Chanel: Couturiere at Work

by Claudia Schnurmann, Shelley Tobin

This image of the 1950's Chanel suit is the begining and entire influence of my self directed project.

Out of all the images i could have pulled as inspiration of a Chanel suit, i chose this one.

If you think Chanel this is the image that first pops into your head.

Classic white suit with black trim, elegant pencil skirt, three quarter length sleeves, pearls.

Its the quintessential chanel look.

sleeve cuffs

Today i finished off the sleeve cuffs, i trimmed s/a, and applied the black ribbed silk trim as a binding around the edge of the open cuff, and stitched on the buttons.
I am really happy with the finish of the cuffs, they look smart and well made. I too my time over the finish.
This is a fake sleeve vent.

These photos show the stage i am at, ready to put in sleeves.

Trimming

This is the trimming im using on the suit jacket, its a ribbed silk ribbon trim, which i bought at Kliens in London while on my work placement.

Ive already used it to trim the pockets and i think it works effectively.

I will use it to trim the centre front and the hem on the jacket.

Pockets

Jacket Pockets

Im really pleased with the progress i made today.

I spent the whole day putting the pockets in the jacket fronts, i find pockets quite hard normally and i wanted to get these pockets perfect or as close to perfect as i have skill to do.
So i took my time over them, read through my pocket notes as i was doing each step to make sure i was doing everything correct.
I made a few minor mistakes, but went back on myself to correct them.

I am determined not to accept second best in my skills and abilities, as this was picked up on in a previous project, i am working hard to continually improve in all areas of making.

These pockets were huge hurdle for me, and i am happy with the standard i produced today.
It was a very productive day over all :)

Suit Skirt

Ive been making good progress with the chanel style suit skirt.

Ive been using the information and skills learned while on my london workplacement at arts ed to support most of my work so far.
The support available to me at arts ed has enabled me to make fast progress with the skirt.
Having never made anything like it my knowledge is growing in this subject area.

Having said that, i do think that the techniques i was taught at arts ed were a fast alternative to a slow process. Only because they need costumes fast, i am now taking my time over the construction of my chanel style suit, and consentrating on my finish and detailing!

time plan

BA (Hons) Costume with Performance Design 2009-2010

Level: 5

Unit Title: Self Directed Project

Date	Day	Start Time	Finish Time	Session
15/03/10	Mon			Off campus
16/03/10	Tues	9.30	4.30	Studio – library collect research
17/03/10	Wed	9.30	4.30	Studio – draw up basic blocks
18/03/10	Thurs	9.30	4.30	Studio – draft blocks
19/03/10	Fri			Off campus
22/03/10	Mon	9.30	4.30	Studio – cut out fabric, create toile
23/03/10	Tues	9.30	4.30	Studio – continue toile construction, first fitting
24/03/10	Wed	9.30	4.30	Studio – make alterations after fitting
25/03/10	Thurs	1.30	4.30	Studio – re draw patterns and be ready for after Easter
26/03/10	Fri			Off campus
Easter Holiday 26/03/10-12/04/10	Easter Holiday	Easter Holiday	Easter Holiday	Easter Holiday
Work Placement 12/04/10-30/04/10	Work Placement	Work Placement	Work Placement	Work Placement
3/05/10	Mon	May Bank holiday	May Bank holiday	May Bank holiday
4/05/10	Tues	9.30	4.30	Studio – cut out patterns on top fabric
5/05/10	Wed	9.30	4.30	Studio – mark stitch and apply Mac graduate, begin costume construction
6/05/10	Thurs	9.30	4.30	Studio – costume construction (pockets)
7/05/10	Fri	9.30	4.30	Studio – costume construction (pockets)
10/05/10	Mon	9.30	4.30	Studio – costume construction (lining)
11/05/10	Tues	9.30	4.30	Studio – costume construction (lining)
12/05/10	Wed	9.30	4.30	Studio – costume construction (lining)
13/05/10	Thurs	9.30	4.30	Studio – finishing costume
14/05/10	Fri	9.30	4.30	Studio – finishing costume
17/05/10	Mon	9.30 – 10.00		Hand in